It’s time to add Poland to your Passport – hello vodka!
With plenty of Australian summers to waste on a beach, it was time to sign up for a different adventure this year, so on my last trip to Europe, I found myself on a flight to Krakow.
Poland has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, but whenever I plan a trip to Europe, I can’t help but to give in to the Mediterranean beaches or the romantic cities.
Our first view (and vodka!)
Intrigued by Poland’s history, I had a vision that the country would be an extension of a Grimm fairy-tale, full of dark woods and beautiful castles. The small grey airport and the concrete highway to the city doesn’t necessarily correspond with this vision. Thankfully our cab driver Tony is so passionate about his hometown that it’s hard to hold on to our slight disappointment.
The concrete and cold environment turns into a warm and medieval landscape as we get closer to the city, and Tony proudly shares all he knew about Krakow. He tells us stories about buildings that we would have never noticed and points at restaurants we should try. By the time we get to the hotel, we have enough tips to keep us entertained for weeks. Especially in regards to the types of Vodka available, so we figured that we might as well start there.
Vodka is served as a side to your preferred mixer, so you better get ready for some Lil Jon style shots, shots, shots. We found a beer garden on ul. Ciemna in Kazimierz, the former Jewish , and settle in for some liquid potato goodness. With over 10 types of Polish Vodkas, we can’t make it through the complete list!. Hungry, we wander down to what Tony calls “the Maccers of Polish Food”, Cholpskie Jaldo. I have Zurek, a traditional soup with bacon, potatoes, eggs and white sausage served in a hollow bread roll. Officially a starter but definitely big enough for a main. The boyfriend had a meat stew (and the leftovers of my soup).
The alleys of the Old Town are full of little bars and restaurants. During summer it can get up to 40 degrees in Krakow and with the sun staying out till late, these alleys offer the right amount of beer gardens and outdoor seating to get you through the night. With lots of people out till late and heaps of locals excited to show their way of drinking, uh, I mean living, we couldn’t have asked for a better first night.
Zablocie and Kazimierz
A bit dusty from the night before, we put on our sunglasses and start the 40 minute walk to Zablocie. The area was part of the Jewish Ghetto during the Nazi Regime and is known for the Oskar Schindler Factory, ), a remarkable story made famous by Steven Spielberg’s 1993 blockbuster. The museum is now a war memorial, displaying a narrative of Krakow under Nazi regime. Our vodka levels were getting dangerous low when we left the museum, so we walk to the Father Bernatek Footbridge (Krakow’s love lock bridge) and make the cross to Kazimierz for drinks and some Pierogi, traditional Polish dumplings- the ultimate drinking snack.
What I love about Krakow is that the city is not too big, so in summer it’s possible to walk everywhere, which comes in handy with all the vodka around. We make our way back to the hotel, with a small detour to visit an Absinthe Café , for a well-deserved nap, after which we head out for dinner at Polski Smaki on Swietego Tomasza. The restaurant is known for its traditional and affordable food, and it was here where we tried and fall in love with Placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes).
Auschwitz Concentration Camp
About an hour drive away from Krakow you’ll find the Auschwitz Concentration Camp, a Nazi death camp that’s now a museum.. We toss up hiring a car or booking a tour and I’m glad we go with the last one – and not just because they drive on the left side in Poland! Our tour guide picks us up, drives us there and has tickets ready so we can skip the queue and walk right through It’s an exhausting and somewhat emotional day there but I recommend it. After we get back to the city, we decide to leave the vodka and potato dishes for what they are and have a quiet cocktail and delicious pizza at Pino on Szczepańska 4.
The last day
Free from the nagging vodka headache that has become familiar to us, we are ready to take on the world and tackle Krakow. First off: the Wawel castle This castle was built between 1333 and 1370, and with its dominant presence in the skyline, it is truly the crown jewel of the city. Leave it up to a medieval King to build something that is so extraordinary, you’re not even sure if what you’re seeing is real. From golden roofs to tower extensions to an intense garden, it was all there and for a moment I felt like Cinderella.
Which makes me realise that I’ve spent way too much time drinking and not enough time shopping. I drag the boyfriend to Galeria Krakowska where you can find a lot of international brands mixed up with local stores. After scoring a couple of amazing items – including a jumpsuit that I have spent most of my weekends in ever since – we walk back to the main square via the Planty Garden ring, the garden that surrounds the Old Town.
The end of our Krakow trip is getting near, and we finish our adventure with a Polish Raspberry cider at Zarowka Cafe before Tony picks us up again. We both aren’t ready to go, but unfortunately the flight to our next destination can’t wait. Krakow might not be the Mediterranean, but its beautiful architecture, amazing food and lovely people sure gives Paris a run for her money.
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