The Horta da Moura is a small, very charming country auberge that sits just at the bottom of the hill below the castle of Monsaraz, one of the most remarkable historical sites in eastern Portugal. The grounds are well tended, the rooms are sparkling clean and quite good-sized and the building contains several lounge areas that contain wood-burning fireplaces and large amounts of authentic Alentejo furniture and decor. My wife and I broke our general never-eat-where-you-stay rule, and we are quite glad we did, because the inn's restaurant, Feitiço da Moura (The Spell of the Moorish Woman) indeed had us spell-bound with the quality and value of its cuisine. Have a special bottle of wine from your tour of the local adegas that you want to open with your dinner? No problem -- they're only too happy to oblige, even though their own wine-list certainly needs no apology. But beware -- a big dinner may dampen your appetite for the massive country breakfast that will be served up the next morning, and it too will include many items with sabor alentejano. If there is better value for your travel dollar in the euro-denominated countries than Alentejo, then I am waiting to discover it. The Huerta da Moura, all by itself, is probably enough to make that case.